by Burnrider


1 => Remove the seat and left side panel
2 => Disconnecct the 2 wire connector (lights => and the 4 wire connector
3 => Remove the front sprocket cover
4 => Clip nylon ties and release wire back to the stator case cover
5 => Lean the bike at slight angle. I rested mine on top of a 36" work bench
6 => Remove the eight 6mm bolts securing the case cover and tap with a plastic mallet
7 => Remove the cover with the stator plate and work loose the wire grommet seal


1 => Remove the three 4mm allen bolts securing the stator to the outer case
2 => Remove the four Phillips screws securing the wire stay and pickup sensor
3 => The allens and Phillips screws are Lock-Tite mounted. An impact driver is needed
4 => The pickup sensor is magnetized
5 => Now that the stator is removed from the case, replace the case on the bike and tighten the eight 6mm bolts
6 => Tape the wire hole and order a new gasket at this time for reassembly
7 => Now you can store the bike out of the way on a stand


1 => Looking at the edge of the stator with both solder contacts facing your chest you can see the first coil is empty. The marks from the allen screws are on the side facing out.
2 => First coil - EMPTY
3 => Second coil - CCW48 turns @16wraps X 3 layers
4 => Third coil - CW 72 turns @ 13 wraps X 5+ layers
5 => Fourth coil - CCW 72 turns @ 13 wraps X 5+ layers
6 => Fifth coil - CW 72 turns @ 13 wraps X 5+ layers
7 => Sixth coil - EMPTY

They only use enough epoxy to seal wire at the top of the pole on one side. Solder poles are located on the third pole, ideal for a parallel configuration using three poles. To release the wires from the solder poles, heat the solder blob and press an exacto knife blade to split the pole and release the wire. Use electrical contact cleaner to remove the oil residue.


Before you pull the stator you can order the wire, epoxy, a better regulator, and a new case gasket. The costs are approximately : Wire - $20.00, Epoxy - $20.00, Gasket - $11.00, Baja Designs regulator - $15.00 plus shipping. Good eyes or strong glasses are required to track the wire path around the stator. Even 20 gauge wire is hard and resists forming on the first wrap. It is difficult to make equal layers given the 'hole created on a stator pole for wire entry and wire finish for every wrap. Another way to measure wire might be to remove and measure the existing wire, or wind a coil to spec and remove the wire to measure it's length. I wound all six poles with 5 layers of wire 13 wraps per length of the stator pole. Eight layers of wire, recommended by a XR250 article, looked like too much wire for the KLX stator.


For the first set of 3 poles, I started the first pole CCW and left 6" of wire to go to the solder terminal. I wrapped the second pole CW, and the third pole CCW. I left enough wire to get to the solder terminal for the ending wire of the first set of poles

For the second set of 3 poles, I started the first pole CW and left 6" of wire to go to the solder terminal. I wrapped the second pole CCW and the third pole CW. I left enough wire to get to the solder terminal for the ending wire of the second set of poles.

The first three wraps are the most uniform, after that, the are harder to keep flat and even. I cut and scraped the wire to solder 2 wires to each solder terminal to complete the job. The 3M 2216 epoxy spreads easily and flows to finish itself if you rotate the stator and let it drip off both sides equally. The epoxy appears to secure the outside windings from moving and mechanically damaging the insulation.


I connected the beginning wire from poles 1-3 to the bigining wire from poles 4-6. It generated no power. I removed the second set of poles and I got power. I then connected the second set of poles with the start wire from poles 1-3 to the end wire from poles 4-6 to one of the solder terminals. I connected the end wire from poles 1-3 to the start wire of poles 4-6 to the second solder terminal. I got full power from all 6 poles.

I went for broke and two 35 watt headlight bulbs on the bike and started it. They were both very bright. I gassed it maybe a quarter throttle. The light was a little brighter, but nit much. That is 70 watts. I added in the tail light with the same result. A tail light is good for only 5 watts. This gave me 75 watts of bright lighting. INCREDIBLE! Like I knew what I was doing. My goal was to power a 35 watt bulb, the 20 watt hand warmers, and the 5 watt tail light. This configuration should do it. I am now shopping for a good digital multi-tester. When I get one I will load it again and post more accurate results for you.


1 => I would spend some wire wire to wrap a pole, strip it and measure the wire. You can then pull wire off the spool, measure it and mark it with masking tape. It's difficult to keep it neat and count wraps, even though I did my best.

2 => 3M 2216 epoxy spreads very well. I would get it if you can find some.

3 => Leave a little extra wire at the end of the solder connections and place the excess on a stator pole without making a complete wrap. If (when => you make a mistake, it can easily pulled out of the epoxy and pulled to the solder terminal.

4 => Check out the pictures below to help you visualize it.

5 => It's a backyard project. Anyone who can change a tire can do this. The benefit is worth the time.

6 => There is a lot of information on the web. Go to a Yahoo search and put in "stator winding". It brings up all the private web pages by the Honda guys. I found that all of them had most of the information, but everyone omits something. It leaves you guess what to do next. I used the parallel wiring configuration because the information from some of the XR guys said it gave the most power. They specified eight layers of 20 gauge wire. I took a chance and it worked very well for my needs. I talked to Baja Designs technical section. "Jake" said a parallel configuration would give me more power than I needed. It gave some confidence in the project

I used an impact driver and hammer. Place the cover on several rags or a soft piece of wood. The 4 Phillips screws and the 3 allen bolts are Lock-Tited from the factory. The screw driver shows the metal clip you need to pry up to remove the wiring. Note the two dark coils are the ignition coils. Electrical contact cleaner removed the oil from the stator. The solder terminals are located at 11 o'clock. They are in a perfect position  for a 3 pole parallel wiring configuration.
The doubled welding wire at the bottom is pushed through a allen bolt hole to keep the stator from turning. I put a PVC fitting through the center to hold it in a vise. The firs t2-3 layers go on very uniform. The last 2 are difficult to keep this nice. I labeled the pole. Kawasaki started winding the first pole CCW. I repeated this process. The first two wires are set aside to solder with the last two wires of the next set of poles to the solder terminals.  The wire from the first set  of 3 poles and the wire ends from the second set of 3 poles is soldered on one terminal. The wire from the second set of 3 poles and the wire end from the first set are soldered on the other terminal.
The epoxy finished coils with the 3m product. This epoxy goes on smooth. I rotated the coils and let them 'drip off' the excess. The 3m goes on very easily giving a nice finish and seals the outer wire coil from mechanical damage. The red and white wire loop around the epoxy coated pole at 1 o'clock. All wires return to the metal clip at 4 o'clock and the clip is closed with pliers.  Some have had their lights go out after having their stator rewound. The Baja Designs regulator is supposed to handle more voltage than the stocker for about $20.00 shipped. The brown and yellow wires match the KLX wires. I clipped off the stock connector and resoldered it to the Baja regulator.